2004 Nissan Xterra Will Not Start Problem by Miami Mobile Mechanic

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Today we have a 2007 Nissan Xterra with a no start condition. The engine will crank, but it will not start. The problem with this car is that we’re missing fuel, and that’s what this video is about right now. We’re going to find out why we’re missing fuel and we’re going to show you some techniques that I use to diagnose a no fuel problem.

First thing we’re going to do is scan the engine verism DTCs. And we will find a P0300 DTC in there because one of the methods I used to verify that the car was not getting fuel was to supply it with fuel. I simply took a can of brake cleaner and sprayed did it to the intake manifold and had someone crank the engine. If the engine starts, that means that you are missing fuel. You have your spark, you have your air, you have everything you need to start the engine except for fuel. And by spraying the brake cleaner into the intake manifold while you supplied the engine with fuel to start and the engine won’t start.

What we need to figure out is why we do not have a fuel supply going to this engine while it’s cranking. And the method that I used to get the brake cleaner into the engine was simply to unplug a vacuum line. You can see this vacuum line right there, that’s what I unplugged and just stuck my little straw from the brake cleaner can into that hole, sprayed it in there, cranked the engine, and the engine fired right up.

The next thing we’re going to do is disconnect a fuel supply line at the fuel rail and insert it into a container and see if we get any fuel pressure, see if we got any fuel coming out of that fuel line. I suspect we should have zero fuel pressure whatsoever. It’s probably a better idea to have a fuel gauge. You can use a fuel gauge if you have one around. I do have a few gauge, but right now all I want to see if I have any pressure at all, so I’m just going to skip the fuel gauge and just see if there’s any flow whatsoever. I don’t think there’s any flow, but we’ll see.

But before we do that, we’ll want to go back into our scan tool, and then go into the active test section so that we can energize the fuel pump relay manually. We can go ahead and skip this part because we don’t need to monitor any PIDS since the car doesn’t start so it has no PIDS to monitor. So what we’ll do is just go into the active test section and we will turn a fuel pump on and off, right there as you can see me doing in the screen.

We’ll see if we can actually hear the fuel pump come on. So we’ll do that first. Go under the car, listened for the fuel pump, didn’t hear it. And then we’ll go to the fuel filler neck, see if we can hear it over at the fuel filler neck, and that yielded the same results, we didn’t hear anything.

The next thing we’re going to do is disconnect the fuel line, stick it into a bucket and see if we have any fuel coming out when we activate the fuel pump relay using the active tests and the scan tool. Using a Nissan fuel line disconnect tool, we’re going to take the fuel line out and stick it into a bucket. As you can see right there we got the fuel line sticking in the bucket, and we’re going to activate the fuel pump relay using the scanner with the active test function.

And as you can see, we’ve got no fuel coming out. Now let’s show you what we’ve got on the screen. You can see the fuel pump relay is turned on, but we have absolutely no fuel coming out of that fuel line. Let’s move on to the next step.

According to our wire diagram from Mitchell, this is a typical and simple fuel pump circuit. Power size controlled by the fuel pump relay and you have a constant ground that’s located on the left side of the engine compartment. And so let’s find out what we can do under the hood, as far as checking power to this fuel pump. Let’s go to the next page and see where we are, let’s go back over two pages. Because this is a red wire, let’s zoom in, but we can’t see that. This is the red wire, the power wire for the fuel pump. Let’s go on to the next page, which is where the fuel pump relay is located.

All right, this is the fuel pump relay right here. It is ground side control via this violet wire, and that violet wire goes to the ECM. When fuel is needed, this wire is grounded by the ECM and energizes this coil in the relay and it closes the circuit which is fed by this fuse 48 which is a 15 amp fuse. And that is located in the IPDM, which is the intelligent power distribution module. It is on the right rear of the engine compartment located right over there.

This wire right here is, it just is the control side. And that is hot in on or the run position. Hot, and on, or start. All right, so we should have power right here when the fuel pump is commanded on. And we can do that with the Autel Maxisys scanner. We can command that fuel pump relay to turn on. What we’ll do is we’ll hook up our test light here, turn that relay on, and see if we have power here.

This should prove that this relay is good. This will prove that everything in this section here is working properly. We’ll still have to prove out this circuit right here going all the way to the fuel pump itself, which is the red wire. And if we prove that we have power here, then that means we have a good circuit here as well on the violet wire. That means the computer is in control of the fuel pump relay, so we don’t have to test this. That circuit is fine.

All right, so let’s go ahead and check for power right here at this red wire coming out of the fuel pump relay. Actually, the next step we should take is to check the fuse because if our fuse is blown for the fuel pump, then we need to figure out why the fuse is blowing. So let’s do that first, and then make sure we have power going into the relay by checking that fuel pump fuse.

All right, according to the cover, the fuel pump fuse should be the seventh one from the bottom, according to that IPDM cover. And it’s a 15 amp fuse and you can see it looks like it’s good. So let’s move onto the next step and find that red wire and check for power output at that red wire while we’re turning the fuel pump relay on.

This is the wiring that’s going to the IPDM, the intelligent power distribution module. And we have a red wire right here, according to the wiring diagram, that’s coming out of the fuel pump relay. You can see it right there. However, when you look at this IPDM, you’ll see that there’s quite a few red wires there. There’s a lot of red wires all over the place. But since that red wire seems to be the closest to all of our relays, and I don’t know which relay is which because it’s not labeled, but that red wire is closest to this relay cluster over there.

And not only that, but it’s about the same thickness as what you would find typically on a power wire for a fuel pump. So we’re going to assume that that’s the red wire and we’ll check that wire and see if it acts accordingly.

So we’ll power up the fuel pump relay with the Autel Maxisys and see if our light comes on. If our light comes on when we power up that relay, then we can pretty much say that it’s a safe bet that that’s our power wire going to the fuel pump. All right, so let’s go ahead and turn the fuel pump relay on with the scanner. And as you can see, our light is lighting up on that red wire. So it’s pretty safe to say that that is the red wire going into the fuel pump and that’s the wire that we need to be testing.

But it looks like we just tested it and everything is working great. So we turn it on and off a few times just to make sure that that’s the right wire that we’re on, and yeah, it’s working properly. The relay is working properly. We have current through all of our circuits.

Right now is an opportunity for me to test out a new tool that I purchased from SnapOn. It’s called the SnapOn MultiProbe, the EECT 900, or something like that. I’m not sure what it is, but the feature on this tool is that it has a hot shot feature. It can load test a circuit by simply pressing the button and it’ll tell you if the circuit is good enough to carry a current. I think it’s rated for maybe 30 amps, sustainable. So if it can pass a test using this tool, that circuit can hold 30 amps of sustainable current, allegedly.

Getting things set up, you’ll want to scroll through the menus and then select voltage DC. And then you’ll scroll through the menu on the left side using the arrows on the left and you will select hot shot. You see that there at the top right there, that’s hot shot. Then you’ll begin your testing by putting your MultiProbe on the power source for that fuel pump relay, well the power source for the fuel pump that’s coming out of the fuel pump relay, which is that red wire.

I’ve inserted a T pin there and I’ve attached my MultiProbe to the T pin. And right now it’s just showing negative ground on the screen. We’ll wait till we show the screen, you’ll see it in a second. Right there. You’ll see that the negative is lit up in green. That means we have a ground there.

What we want to do is turn on the fuel pump relay and we should have power there now. You’ll see the red light is red up on the top and the screen is telling us to press the negative button on a MultiProbe. And that’s going to test that circuit. And see it says normal connection, that means that that circuit is able to sustain a current needed to power that fuel pump. So there’s no issues with the wiring going all the way to the fuel pump. Well, there’s no issues with the wiring right there at the relay because we didn’t go back to the fuel pump and do our testing yet, but right up to that point, there’s no issues with the relay, there’s no issues with that connector.

Now before I go ahead and pull that gas tank down and check the connection at the fuel pump itself, I want to see if I can condemn this pump right here under the hood. What I’m going to do is hook up my oscilloscope with the current clamp and see if I have any activity on that circuit. See if I have any current draw being pulled on that circuit while I activate the fuel pump relay. If I see some type of a current draw on that circuit, then that means that the wiring is probably in good condition and it should be good enough to power up a new fuel pump since we suspect that this old fuel pump is bad. So let’s hook up our current clamp and see if we have any current draw.

I didn’t film this entire section right here, but I did hook up the current clamp and I did set my setting on the oscilloscope to 500 milliseconds. And you can see the screen shaking right there. That’s me banging on the fuel pump and you can see there’s no activity whatsoever. We still have to do our checks at the fuel tank, at the fuel pump, and we have to check our power there because we have no current draw, no movement whatsoever on the oscilloscope. And all I did was connect the current clamp around the power wire, the output wire, the red wire on the fuel pump relay. This test didn’t show us anything. We still got to go further.

Now getting to the plug on a fuel pump on this vehicle was not easy. I did have to lower the gas tank a little bit to reach my hand up in there and then unplug the connector. And what you see me doing right now is back probing the plug. The red wire is the power wire, and the black wire is the ground wire. You should probably not use two T pins, but I do want to prove out the ground wire is good and I don’t have any back probing connectors or plugs from my leads. So I’m just going to use the T pins right now, and just keep us separated so that they don’t touch each other and short anything out and blow your fuse.

What we’re going to do right now is power up the fuel pump relay using our scanner and we’ll make sure that the fuel pump wiring can power up the test light. As long as it lights up to test light then that should prove that our circuit is good. There’s no issues with resistance in the wiring. And when we install the new fuel pump, our fuel pump should work and the car should start right up. Now as you can see, to test light is lighting up, it’s really bright so we should be able to install the fuel pump in this car and this car will start right up. Shouldn’t have any issues. Now what we can do is we can further load test that circuit, but I’m pretty confident that this wiring on his car is good.

All right, so the customer did approve the replacement of the fuel pump. And as you can see by looking into that connector, that pin all the way to the left is completely corroded away. Now that’s the power wire for the fuel pump. Now the fuel pump inside the pump inside the tank is probably still good, but the wiring going to that fuel pump is shot because it’s corroded completely away.

What we’re going to do is just put this fuel pump in, get this customer going down the road and that’s it. We’ll be done with this car. All right, so thanks for watching AutoFixPal. Please like, comment, subscribe, and let me know what you think about this video. Any suggestions? You can leave that in the comment section as well. Thank you.

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